Good Bug, Bad Bug
- On June 18, 2018
- By Meleah
- In Organic Gardening, Turf Grass, Uncategorized
- 1
Normally I enjoy gardening in the spring. But after reading seemingly endless headlines about spewing lava, flash floods and gaping sink holes while enduring our freak May blizzard followed by our freak May heat wave, I can’t enjoy myself because I keep wonder whether I’m acting like one of those stalwart band members on the deck of the sinking Titanic. ‘La, la, la … I’m pretty sure the world is coming to an end, but I think I’ll just plant these zinnias and cut back all my pretty shade plants that burned to a crisp in the boiling hot May sun … la, la, la.’
It helped that while I worked I was often able to watch dragonflies. It’s been a few years since we’ve had a lot of dragonflies in the yard, so I’m glad to see them back. I read up on dragonflies during their last visit and learned, among many other things, that I have been calling some insects dragonflies when they are actually damselflies. Both aquatic insects belong to the same order, Odonata, but if you look closely you’ll see that damselflies have slimmer bodies and their eyes are separated and somewhat protruding rather than flat and centered on their heads.
To easily tell the two apart, look at their wings when they are at rest. Dragonflies rest with their wings flat and parallel to the ground while damselflies hold their wings pressed together over their backs, like butterflies do. To learn more about these magical insects, go to the Minnesota Dragonfly Society’s site where you’ll find information on some of the 140 species that can be found in Minnesota. Nerd out more by getting yourself a nice dragonfly identification guide like Stokes Beginner’s Guide to Dragonflies by Blair Nikula, Jackie Sones and Donald and Lillian Stokes.
Bad Bugs—Japanese Beetles
Yes, in just over a month Japanese beetles will arrive and dive head first into having sex on our plants while also eating them and crapping all over the place during their god-forsaken 60-day life cycle. What can be done? I’ve said it before, but I want to say it again because people always ask about how to treat Japanese beetles: I don’t like to use chemicals to kill them or anything else. I just pluck (wear gloves) the gross beetles off of plants and toss them into a bucket of soapy water to DIE. If, however, you are thinking of trying to kill Japanese beetles with insecticides, University of Minnesota Extension Entomologist Jeff Hahn recently sent out an update letting people know that it is too late to do that this season because those suckers are already way too big to be affected by our puny chemical concoctions. You can get a jump on murdering next year’s beetle crop, though, if you apply insecticides to turfgrass from July through mid-September because that’s when females are laying fresh eggs.
But, before reaching for an insecticide, Hahn suggests that we ask ourselves why that seems like the answer. The reason: If grubs are destroying your lawn (usually large patches of yellow/brown grass but that can also be other things), and a good-looking lawn is important to you, then perhaps chemicals can help. If your aim, though, is to reduce the number of beetles having wild sex on your plants and just generally defiling your garden in innumerable ways, think again, because those monsters can fly a long way so treating your small patch of land will do zip.
And one more thing, if you do choose to use chemicals to kill Japanese beetles, please do some Googling to see what the preventative insecticides Hahn suggests (chlorantraniliprole, halofenizide, imidacloprid and chlothianidin) may also harm. I don’t know anything about most of these, but I can tell you that imidacloprid is a neonic and neonics harm bees, dragonflies and other insects.
I’m explaining all of this, not because I want to shame people who feel they need to treat a problem. Rather, I think it is far too common for experts to tell people what they can use to treat this or that problem, but they don’t also explain how those treatments might affect other living creatures and/or the planet. In my experience, when I give people ALL of that information, they often decide using chemicals isn’t worth it. But even when they don’t, at least they had all of the tools they needed to make an informed choice. And who wouldn’t want that?
How to Help Bumble Bees
The plight of honeybees is well publicized. But you don’t hear much about other bees that need our help, and that’s too bad because many other kinds of bees are also disappearing fast. In this column, I’m hoping to raise awareness about what’s happening to bumble bees, particularly the rusty patched bumble bee. It’s not too late to help.
Of the 48 bumble bee species in North America, several are considered to be in decline for a variety of reasons. But in December of 2016, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service declared that the rusty patched bumble bee (Bombus affinis) was endangered because their numbers had declined by 87 percent over the past 20 years.
One of Minnesota’s declining bumble bee species, the rusty patched bumble bee was the first bee species in the continental U.S. to be declared endangered, but it probably won’t be the last. Minnesota is one of the few states where rusty patched bumble bees can still be found, and they are most commonly spotted in the Twin Cities area.
Reasons for the decline of bumble bees mirror those of other bees: pesticide use, climate change, habitat loss and disease have all seemingly contributed to their demise. The situation is dire, but there are positive things gardeners can do to help. A good place to start is to stop using pesticides, or at least limit their use. Next, if you have a big yard and can allow a small space or two to include a few little piles of leaves or brush, queen bumble bees will thank you for the nice places to nest.
Because bumble bees are out early in spring and are active before many plants are in bloom, consider adding some early-spring-flowering bulbs, perennials, shrubs and trees to your yard, like plums, hazelnut, witch hazel, willows, grape hyacinth, scilla (one of my favorite spring plants), snowdrops, crocus, hellebore and Virginia bluebells. Of course, there are many other plants that can be added to your gardens to help bumble bees and other pollinators too.
Unlike honeybees, bumble bees don’t have a lot of honey stored in their nests, so they depend on available flowers.The University of Minnesota’s bee lab has a lot of helpful information on bees on its website, including Plants for Minnesota Bees, which lists several flowering plants that bees like that are suited to most home landscapes. Remember to include plants that offer nectar and pollen because bees need both the protein from pollen and the carbohydrates from nectar to survive.
In addition to planting bumble bee favorites like blueberries, tomatoes, borage, sage, oregano and thyme, here are some standouts to consider from the bee lab’s list, as well as other sources:
- Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
- Autumn joy sedum (Hylotelephium telephium)
- Beebalm (Monarda fistulosa)
- Catmint (Nepeta x fassenii)
- Cup plant (Silphium perfoliatum)
- Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum)
- Honeysuckle vine (Lonicera)
- Ironweed (Vernonia fasiculata)
- Partridge pea (Chamaecrista fasciculata)
- Primroses (Primula vulgaris)
- Rough blazingstar (Liatris aspera)
- Sea holly (Eryngium maritimum)
- Stiff goldenrod (Solidago rigida)
- Wild geranium (Geranium maculatum)
To learn more about bumble bees, including more information on why they are disappearing and what their needs are in terms of habitat, nesting and overwintering, have a look at this section of the Xerces Society’s website.
I’d also like to suggest two great books about pollinators by local authors: Pollinator Friendly Gardening by Rhonda Hayes and Pollinators of Native Plants by Heather Holm.
—A version of this story appeared in Northern Gardener magazine.
Gardening Q & A
Summer is winding down, which means it is once again time for my semi-annual roundup of some of the more unusual, or at least less-common, gardening questions I answered this season. Hopefully there’s something here that you’ll find interesting or helpful.
How do I save tomato seeds?
It’s easier than you might think. Scrape the pulp from a few of the same tomatoes into a jar with some water in it and stir. Put a lid on the jar and let it sit for a three or four days at room temperature, stirring a couple of times a day. You want seeds to drop to the bottom so add more water if you need to and continue to stir. Once there are many seeds on the bottom of the jar, skim off floating seeds and any mold, if you see some. Carefully pour out some of the water and add fresh water before skimming the top again. Once the container looks clean and there is little to nothing floating, pour off all of the water through a fine strainer and spread your seeds out to dry. I use a dinner plate, but you can also use screen or a cutting board, whatever works.
Can I use Milorganite to condition straw bale gardens before planting?
I’d say gardeners have to decide this for themselves. Here are the facts: Milorganite is a fertilizer made from treated sewer sludge from the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District. The sludge, which comes in pellet form and smells kind of gross, but not in the way you would think, is marketed as being great for trees, shrubs, lawns and home gardens. It is also a good deer and rabbit repellent. The problem is, while Milorganite is deemed safe for consumer use by the US Environmental Protection Agency, testing has shown that it contains contaminants that the treatment process cannot remove, such as heavy metals, pathogens, pharmaceuticals and other toxic chemicals. Because of this, I steer clear of using it on or near edible plants. If you’re going to plant a straw bale, there are many other safe, organic fertilizers to choose from.
I want a red-blooming delphinium. Is there such a thing?
Happily, there are some varieties of red delphinium, and I would suggest ‘Red Caroline,’ which has coral-colored blooms that darken to red as they mature. Like most delphinium, they will do best if you stake them so they won’t topple over. Pollinators and hummingbirds love these flowers, and plants are hardy to Zone 4, so they will survive our horrifying winters. While you might find these in garden centers, it’s probably easier to go online and order either seeds or plants.
Is garlic a good insect repellent?
Yes, it definitely can be. You can buy various types of garlic-based sprays and oils, or you can make your own by tossing two large cloves of garlic and 4 cups of water into a blender. Strain the mush through some cheesecloth once or twice and dilute what’s left with another cup of water. Test the garlic repellent on a plant or two that you don’t care about so much before spraying it widely; just to be sure you’re not causing any damage. Tests have shown that whiteflies, some types of beetles and aphids are all repelled by garlic, though be aware that your garden’s going to be a bit smelly for a few days.
Battling Japanese Beetles
- On August 11, 2017
- By Meleah
- In Bugs, Organic Gardening, Perennials, Soil, Uncategorized, What In Tarnation?
- 2
In the last half an hour since I came in from the garden, at least two Japanese beetles have flown out of my hair, headed for who knows where in my house. But that was nothing compared to the one that just crawled boldly out of the waistband of my jeans. I squished it. Just one week ago I was breathing a sigh of relief that our Southwest Minneapolis neighborhood seemed, once again, to be mostly dodging the Japanese beetle plague after being hit really hard in 2011. And then I spotted them on my roses, and the Virginia creeper and the grape vines and the river birch trees. Soon they will move on to other plants they love, including my basil, and I will hate them for that, especially.
I have been battling Japanese beetles in earnest for five days now and, as you probably already know from having experienced them yourselves—I am losing. There are a lot of reasons for that; the biggest being that they are demons from hell and there is nothing mortals can do to stop them. But that aside, I also don’t like to use chemicals outside or inside, so my strategy for getting rid of them amounts to going around knocking them off of my plants and into a plastic bowl filled with soapy water. Yes, I do wear a glove on the beetle scooping hand. I have heard anecdotally that the beetles can bite, but that has never happened to me. I just prefer to keep them off my hand skin whenever possible.
Before I say more about how to deal with these gross creatures, let me first explain a bit about Japanese beetles for those who have been living in a cave or condo for years, and/or are just new to the perils of gardening. About the size of a dime with futuristic-looking, gold and green bodies, Japanese beetles are actually kind of attractive if you’re into metallic bug robots. They were first spotted in Minnesota in 1968, but with the exception of a brief period in 2000 and 2001, they didn’t become much of a problem until about 2005.
Though the Japanese beetle life cycle is a short 60 days or so, they can do a lot of damage in that amount of time. Females lay eggs beneath turf grass in the summer, and around June or early July the following year their offspring emerge and fly off to their favorite plants (they are attracted to about 300 different plant species) where they mate in zombie-like orgiastic piles while skeletonizing leaves and pooping everywhere. Pheromones released by the beetles during this whole scene, which I swear I am not exaggerating, attract more and more beetles, and in a short time the areas where they gather are both denuded of foliage and reeking to high heaven, as my grandma used to say.
Anyway, let’s get back to how to get rid of them. Because the pheromones they release attract more beetles, it’s best to reduce their numbers if you can. So, as I said earlier, I go around murdering them every day with a glove on one hand and a bowl of soapy water in the other. I do this by slipping the bowl under a bunch of them, and then I gently brush the beetle piles into the water and move on to the next spot. Even when they are not enraptured by beetle sex, these are not fast-moving creatures—unless they start to fly—so it’s pretty easy to knock hundreds of them into a bowl of water in about 20 minutes.
Here’s a tip—don’t get super ambitious like I did today and try to brush a wide swath of them into the bowl at one time because loads of startled beetles will fly up and into your hair, your shirt pockets and your jeans—one even ricocheted off my lips. And here’s another tip—don’t hang up one of those Japanese beetle pheromone traps because they do work by attracting lots of beetles. The problem is they attract a whole lot more beetles to your yard than that trap will ever be able to deal with. Study after study has shown this and yet hardware stores keep selling out of these traps. Spread the word.
If you don’t handpick Japanese beetles or use ill-advised traps, all of the other reasonable-sounding ways to control them involve insecticides, either synthetic or organic, and most, if not all of those are toxic to pollinators and other living things in one way or another. I love my gardens and it pains me to see them torn apart by ravenous, sex-crazed beetles. But, it doesn’t make sense to me to resort to chemicals that are known to be harmful, even when used according to their labels, which often advise spraying at night so the product will hopefully be dry by morning when bees start visiting plants. What? No. I can live with a few beetles in my hair.
Go Goats!
If you read my column even occasionally, you’ve likely gleaned that I’m not very keen on the Minneapolis Park Board’s outdated, chemical-laden approach to managing our public parks, ball fields and other outdoor spaces under their control. Today, though, I want to acknowledge something they did recently that was actually good.
If you haven’t already heard, in late May, Minneapolis joined other cities, including St. Paul, Minnetonka and Northfield, in using goats to help manage invasive plants, like buckthorn and garlic mustard. My husband, Mike, and I saw the goats in action near Cedar Lake’s east beach (Hidden Beach) a few weeks ago. And I have to say that one week into their 10-day stay, those goats had pretty much denuded the 6-acre area they were corralled in. It was wonderful to see and hear them as they wandered around with their babies munching on greenery. Apparently their next stop will be the northwest portion of Wirth Park in late July.
Rented from Diversity Landworks of La Crescent, Minn., the goats were protected by two layers of fencing and an on-site shepherd, Jesse Dale. While the creatures can’t control invasive species in just one visit, the hope is that repeated visits will at least keep problem plants in check. It the Park Board sees positive results they say they may cut down on the amount of glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup) and other herbicides they are currently using. Let’s hope that’s the case. Go goats!
Free Seeds Still Available
- On June 07, 2017
- By Meleah
- In Annuals, Herbs, Organic Gardening, Perennials, Seeds, Uncategorized
- 0
The Little Free Seed Library at my house (on the boulevard on the corner of 45th Street and Washburn Ave. South) has been busier than ever this year. People have donated so many seeds; I’ve had to put them out in batches because there isn’t enough room to hold them all. A few weekends ago, when we were out gardening, we lost count of the number of families who came by, often sitting down on the sidewalk together, to sort through the seeds packets and decide what they wanted to take home.
“Mommy, make sure you get some red peppers,” one little boy yelled. At suppertime, a teenage boy and his mother showed up because he had walked by earlier and seen that the library also included free seeds. “I went home and told her that we had to come back because this is so cool,” he said. All of this happiness made us happy too, so thank you to all of you joyful people who came by to get some seeds. And thank you, too, to everyone who has brought over seeds to share.
What’s in the Little Free Seed Library is always changing, but with all of the donations it’s safe to say that there is a still a big supply of vegetable seeds, including several varieties of corn, peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, squash and lettuce. There is also a variety of herb seeds, as well as a wide variety of flower seeds, including lupines, snap dragons, morning glories, zinnias, coreopsis, Shasta daisies, Echinacea, moon flower, impatiens, delphinium, foxglove, four o’clocks, bachelor buttons and many more. Come by and take what you need, or drop off extras you’ve got!