Twisted Logic Parts I and II
Timber Press is kindly hosting a contest to win a copy of my book: “Decoding Gardening Advice”, so I wrote a couple of blog posts to go along with the offer.
Both posts are on “twisted logic,” the weird reality that a lot of gardening advice that’s so wrong actually sounds so right.
Go here to read both posts. If you’re short on time, just read to the second post, which talks about how much landscape fabric sucks and the folly of wrapping evergreens for winter. Honestly, if you’re going to mummify evergreens every winter, wouldn’t it be wiser to just go with some nice shrubs?
And while we’re on the topic of evergreens, what could possibly be the point of the burlap-wrapping strategy in the picture above? I’m so mystified, I just started a new blog category called “What In Tarnation?” My much-missed grandma Daisy used to say that when she thought something was “pert near crazy” and I figure I’ll carry on her tradition.
Plant Trees Now—And Be Sure to Water Them
- On September 19, 2011
- By Meleah
- In Soil, Trees and Shrubs
- 0
Everyone talks about spring being the best time to plant trees and that is true, usually. But fall is also a great time for tree planting as long as you don’t choose birch, firs, oaks and most fruit trees. Those do best when they get a spring start for reasons that are not really understood, though some think it has something to do with tree’s root systems. Trees with a large taproot that grows deep into the soil — rather than a network of finer roots closer to the surface — should not be planted in the fall, they say.
I’ll just add that my own completely unscientific research confirms that birch do better when planted in the spring. I have three birch trees, well, two now. The survivors were planted in the spring and the dead one was planted in the fall. It kicked the bucket in less than two years, which is when I Googled to find out what was up and discovered that I probably sentenced the poor thing to an early death by snapping it up at a fall plant sale and putting it in the ground.
Read More»What To Do When a Tree is Removed
- On May 19, 2011
- By Meleah
- In Trees and Shrubs
- 0
This time of year, many homeowners and county forestry departments move quickly to remove dead, dying, and diseased trees. Years ago it was common practice to pull stumps, but now grinding is a more popular strategy.
Grinding is nice because the stump is gone and the surrounding area goes unscathed for the most part. The only problem is that if the stump is not fully removed, there can be a lot of dead wood left in the ground. As it decays, microbes in the soil will multiply rapidly to feed on the decaying matter. This increase in microbes causes more and more nitrogen to be used up, temporarily depriving grass and other plants of the nutrients they need. Keep an eye on this and fertilize if need be.
If a stump is not ground out deeply enough, you can hasten the decomposition process by removing as much of the bark, grindings, and sawdust as possible. You can also try adding additional nitrogen to the area, which will help speed up decomposition and reduce the amount of yellowing and stunted growth on surrounding plants. Even with added nitrogen, though, it is unlikely that grass will grow well in that spot for several years.
Planting Under Trees
- On May 17, 2011
- By Meleah
- In Trees and Shrubs
- 0
Spring is the time for trying new things. And since grass does not grow well under most trees, some gardeners wonder if they can replace their struggling grass. The answer is yes, but be careful.
Like grass, any plant will have a difficult time trying to survive beneath a tree. One of the biggest reasons is those plants have to compete with the tree’s extensive root system for nutrients and water.
Many plants will do just fine in that tough environment, as long as they get some extra water and fertilizer. But when planting, be careful not to damage the tree’s roots. A lot of people think tree roots are deep in the ground, but the reality is that 90 percent of a tree’s roots are located in the top 3 feet of soil under and around the canopy.
Shade-loving annuals like impatiens might add color under a shade tree, but if you plant them you have to disturb roots every year. That’s why it’s better to go with perennials under trees if you can, and just tuck in a few annuals for color.
If you have to remove grass, hand dig as carefully as you can. Try not to cut through roots larger than 2 inches thick as those are more vital than smaller roots. Use a garden hose to determine the shape of your bed rather than going with a standard circle, which looks less natural. And choose plants that can tolerate the dry, shady conditions of an understory, such as barrenwort, bleeding heart, ferns, and Solomon’s seal.
Springtime tips
- On May 15, 2011
- By Meleah
- In Trees and Shrubs, Turf Grass
- 0
I haven’t done a spring tips column in a long time, and after the long, snowy winter we’ve had I figured now is as good a time as any to do so. We all try to push it and get out and garden as soon as the first sign of spring comes but, honestly, that’s a bad idea. Tromping around on wet soil does more harm than good.
And though I’ve seen a lot of people doing it, you definitely should not be raking your lawn when the soil is still cold and soggy — even if you are grossed out by all the horrible snow mold everywhere.
Read More»Don’t Plant Trees Too Deeply
- On April 14, 2011
- By Meleah
- In Trees and Shrubs
- 0
This spring, a red oak tree someone planted decades ago on the southern most edge of our yard is coming down. Hollow to the point of being hazardous, city arborists sprayed it with an orange X last fall. Once the snow melts, I imagine it won’t be long before they’re back armed with chainsaws and a bucket truck.
The city is removing the tree because it’s so close to the sidewalk, it falls under their jurisdiction rather than ours as property owners. As happy as we are not to be out the thousands of dollars it was going to cost to have it cut down, it’s sad that the very location that spared our wallets is probably largely to blame for that beautiful tree’s early demise.
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